Had to kick the side door to my garage in once. After repairing the frame and adding the longer screws as Spud mentioned, I lag bolted a piece of 2 inch stainless angle through the frame and stud. That door won't be kicked in again, it'll take a battering ram...
We've been talking about replacing our front door. I told SW that we need to look into a door with a steel frame. Once it's lag bolted into place it's going to take a big ram to get it open.
I went all out on ours (well, within our meager budget of course). Commercial grade steel doors, locksets and frames. Grouted into cmu walls, the cavities at jambs filled with concrete to minimize jamb spreaders. I figure that ought to slow them down.
Btw, some solid wood 'chocks' inserted into jamb (both sides), threshold and door head would also make it harder to kick in.
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4 comments:
That's why you put three inch screws in place of the normal ones for the striker plates. Same for the hinges.
Had to kick the side door to my garage in once. After repairing the frame and adding the longer screws as Spud mentioned, I lag bolted a piece of 2 inch stainless angle through the frame and stud. That door won't be kicked in again, it'll take a battering ram...
We've been talking about replacing our front door. I told SW that we need to look into a door with a steel frame. Once it's lag bolted into place it's going to take a big ram to get it open.
I went all out on ours (well, within our meager budget of course). Commercial grade steel doors, locksets and frames. Grouted into cmu walls, the cavities at jambs filled with concrete to minimize jamb spreaders. I figure that ought to slow them down.
Btw, some solid wood 'chocks' inserted into jamb (both sides), threshold and door head would also make it harder to kick in.
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